Biography and informationEdit
He was born 17 Feb 1907 in Krasnoyarsk, in a family of Cossack.
A prominent Soviet sculptor and climber, honored master of sports, honored master of mountaineering (1934), made the first ascent to Communism peak (Pamir, 1933). He is one of the many composition of assault detachment of the Pamir-Tajik expedition in 1933 managed to reach the top — 7 of 495 m.
Climbed no less than fifty vertices, conducted research, studied and mapped the mountain ranges and glaciers of the Pamir and Tien Shan. In 1932 he graduated from Moscow art Institute named after V. I. Surikov, was a member of the Union of artists of the USSR created a number of paintings and sculptures, among which the most famous sculptural group "the Mountaineer and the mountaineer".
During the great Patriotic war went to the front as a volunteer, participated in the battle of Moscow, defense of the Caucasus, taught at the school of military mountaineering.
Died in the night from 23 to 24 March 1948.
In honor of Eugene Abalakova was named peak in the Pamirs, the mountain peaks of the Tien Shan, there are Abalakovskaya crack in Kommunar, Abalakovskaya circus on Takmak.
The name of Brothers Abalakovym in Krasnoyarsk named street. In Krasnoyarsk there stands the house on adresu 74 Lenina street, where they lived Abalakova.
The main peaks of his life Yevgeny Abalakov reached on 3 September 1933. That day, he alone of all the numerous detachment of the Pamir-Tajik expedition of the Academy of Sciences and Council of people's Commissars of the USSR, having overcome a severe emergency situation of climbing managed to bring the winning baton to the highest point of the country, the first and only embarked on Stalin peak - 7495 m. (later Communism peak), setting the seven-height-two-pounds automatic weather station. The job of the government was accomplished! The success of the ascent was of great scientific and political importance, typing along with the expeditions of the polar explorers, Epron, Chelyuskin Epic and flights of Valery Chkalov bright page in the achievement of the country 30 years. This legendary climb, which was the largest global achievement, in the figurative comparison of the authorities of Russian mountaineering - "Yevgeniy Abalakov how would wearing a symbolic crown, pioneer, forever writing his name in the historical record of the victories of world mountaineering".
And in the Ukrainian city of Sumy, one of the main streets in the Palace of schoolchildren and youth there is an unusual Museum of mountaineering and sports club, where sports, Hiking, mountaineering enthusiastic guys and girls. They have chosen their hero Eugene Abalakova. But not only young people, but all the climbers of the country with great respect for his memory, the leader of the national mountaineering
30-40 years old, warrior, Explorer and artist. In the Pamirs there is an unusual "abalakovskaya triangle". It is a monument to the climber, as if built by nature. If you look at the map, we can see three peaks are angles of a triangle: Communism peak (pioneer E. Abalakov), the peak of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state (aka pioneer) and the peak named Eugene Abalakova - 6650 m. this Is the "abalakovskaya" monument in the Pamirs. The second such monument in the country. Only forty years was allotted to him by fate, and he had so much in his short life, so firmly embedded his name in the history of the national sport, and today, in the beginning of the XXI century - Abalakov continues in business climbing trips and competitions, Museum relics, in youthful hearts.